I've been wanting to go to this Yogini temple at Mitavali, Morena, for a long while, it's remote, off the circuit location, made that difficult. The road winds it's way through villages, narrow and rough in most part, with nothing to indicate the way to the temple, except Google maps ! Finally got there the day before yesterday in very intense heat. It was about 48 degrees with a rough hot wind, the loo, blowing across. About a hundred steps, roughly hewn into the rock face, lead up to the circular temple, on top of the isolated outcrop of rock. That made the climb very strenuous. Nothing breaks the hardship, there is no shade, no provision for water or refreshments of any sort. It's such an amazing site though, one which in any other country, would make a major tourist attraction. there were 64 yogini statues in the 64 enclaves, that have been removed to a museum now ( i don't know which one), the temple is striking, though a tad empty , without them.
Go in better weather!
one hears that the inspiration for Parliament House in Delhi might have come from this temple. It is when you step inside that you realise that it could be true. Unlike the Parliament House that has pillars on the outer verandah, the Mitaoli Temple has pillars around the outer circumambulatory path that opens into the central courtyard. There are sixty four mini temples or niches each housing a shivling. The central courtyard is ringed with the main shrine again circular in shape and housing a large shivling.
Later, looking at google images of the Parliament House with its open inner central courtyard and domed structure in the centre, you can’t help but wonder if Herbert Baker did get some inspiration trawling Indian heritage sites before designing New Delhi with Lutyens. But then again – is it one-off design or is it the standard design of Tantric or Yogini Temples
The three temples groups in Mitavali, Padavali and Bateshwar were part of an extensive temple building exercise during the rule of Kachchhapaghatas. Kachchhapaghatas who ruled from Gwalior rose to prominence in central India during the last decade of tenth century and were believed to be vassals of Gurjar-Pratihars and later Chandellas. Along with these temples, they built temples at Kadwaha, Surawaya, Mahua, Terahi (all in Shivpuri district of MP). The pretty Saas-Bahu temple at Gwalior Fort is attributed to them too. that the Morena district has these treasures, is something i have known for long, getting to Padavali and Bateshwar is next.
The top shot is off the internet..the other pictures are ours, from the trip .